History and Origins
Absinth originated in Switzerland in the late 18th century and became popular among French artists and writers in the late 19th century, commonly known as the Belle Époque period. Some attribute its invention to Dr. Pierre Ordinaire, an influential doctor from Couvet. Made from various medicinal alpine herbs including grande wormwood (Artemisia absinthium), from which it derives its name and characteristic bitter taste, absinth was used as an anthelmintic (deworming) medicine in the beginning. It gained wider popularity when French soldiers returned from their garrisons in Switzerland and brought their liking of absinth back home.
By the mid-19th century, Global Absinthe had become a popular drink among the bohemian communities of Paris and other French cities. Artists such as Pablo Picasso, Vincent Van Gogh, and Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec were all known absinth drinkers. Writers like Charles Baudelaire, Oscar Wilde, and Ernest Hemingway also praised absinth in their works and attributed their creativity to the drink. Its popularity spread throughout Europe and as far as New Orleans and San Francisco by the end of the 19th century.
Controversy and Prohibition
However, absinth's rise was followed by intense controversy over its effects. Stories circulated of absinth-induced madness and criminal behavior. Absinth psychosis became a popular diagnosis at the time despite little evidence. Critics pointed to the high alcohol content and presence of thujone, a compound in grande wormwood alleged to have psychoactive qualities similar to THC in cannabis. These claims led to absinth faced prohibition in Belgium, Brazil, France, Luxembourg, Switzerland, and the United States between 1915 and 1913.
France was at the center of anti-absinth sentiment and conducted research that further fueled fears of the drink's effects. In 1905, a French absinthe drinker murdered his entire family, which made international headlines and contributed greatly to absinthophobia, the fear of absinth. This incident influenced other countries to pursue bans of their own even though murder and other crimes linked to alcoholism were far more often attributed to other liquors. By 1915, France had passed legislation outlawing absinth amid public pressure and lobbying from the wine industry, which considered absinth a rival.
The Resurgence of Craft Absinth Production
After the end of World War I, thujone was determined to be in far lower concentrations in absinth than initially claimed and did not actually correlate strongly to violent behavior. The ban remained in place, however, though enforcement gradually eased in some countries. Finally, in the late 20th century, absinth began to enjoy a resurgence as a legitimate drink.
Switzerland again began producing and exporting absinth in the 1980s. As more research disproved fears over thujone toxicity, other countries gradually loosened restrictions and in some cases fully legalized absinth once more. In Spain and Portugal, traditions of absenta, a product similar to absinth, had continued through prohibition with minor adaptations.
By the 2000s, micro-distilleries across Europe resurrected traditional absinth-making techniques and recipes. New producers in the Czech Republic, Austria, Germany, and more joined revivals underway in Switzerland and France. In the United States, craft distilling pioneer T.A. Breaux was an early advocate for lifting the absinth ban and in 2007 established the first legally distilled American absinth company since prohibition.
Contemporary Absinth Culture
Today, absinth enjoys a dedicated following and has reemerged as an artisanal spirit. Producers worldwide create variations using a vast palette of herbs but staying true to the absinth wormwood essence. Ritual remains an important part of the absinth experience. Traditionally, a spoonful of absinth is placed in a glass and water slowly dripped or poured over it. This causes the absinth to louche or take on its characteristic cloudy appearance. Modern absinths tend to have lower alcohol content than historical versions and vary considerably in color and flavor profiles.
Countries across Europe, North and South America host absinth festivals celebrating the drink's resurgence. Distillers offer tastings and educate consumers on historical production methods. Beyond countries where absinth always maintained popularity like the Czech Republic, its newfound acceptance has come about through diligent advocacy and research refuting past misconceptions. New enthusiasts discover absinth's complex, herbaceous flavors and see it as more than just a relic of the past but a unique contemporary spirit experience. Its rebirth has cemented absinth as an indispensable part of cultural heritage that continues to inspire new artists and thinkers today.
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