Costume jewelry, also known as fashion jewelry, refers to jewelry made of less valuable materials than gold, silver and platinum. While costume jewelry has been created for centuries, it saw a major surge in popularity in the United States during the 20th century. This article explores the history and development of the American costume jewelry industry.

Early Beginnings

While costume jewelry has existed for millennia in various cultures around the world, the American industry began to take shape in the early 1900s. Prior to this time, most jewelry worn by average citizens was simple and made of inexpensive base metals as gold and silver were too costly for everyday wear. However, during the 1920s as more women joined the workforce, disposable incomes rose and fashion became more stylish and affordable. This led early American designers like Edward Maurice to experiment with creating costume pieces made of glass, plastic and synthetic rhinestones as lower-cost alternatives to precious gems and metals. By the late 1920s, new synthetic materials like rhinestone, lucite and plastic expanded design possibilities for costume jewelry.

The Golden Age of Costume Jewelry

The 1930s through 1950s are considered the golden age of American costume jewelry. Major companies like Trifari, Hobe, Coro and Monet emerged to mass produce stylish, affordable pieces. As the Great Depression hit and fewer could afford fine jewelry, costume pieces allowed women to stay fashionable on a budget. Hollywood stars popularized costume jewelry on screen, fueling demand. World War II shortages of precious metals also boosted the industry as patriotic citizens conserved strategic resources. Innovations in plating techniques, molding processes and synthetic gemstones during this time advanced design and lowered costs, fueling strong sales through mid-century.

Postwar Prosperity and Experimentation

As the U.S. economy boomed following World War II, costume jewelry remained popular but faced new challenges. Designs became more experimental and avant-garde in response. Plastic became a dominant material, shaping new geometric and sculptural styles. Novel construction methods using thread-winding and cluster-wire assembly streamlined production. Design houses stretched the limits of the medium, earning costume jewelry fine art recognition. New synthetic materials like Lucite and Jeri were pioneered. The 1960s saw a resurgence of artisan techniques using enameling, cloisonné and filigree. Designs incorporated pop culture, retro and psychedelic aesthetics. While fine jewelry regained some ground, costume remained a strong part of American fashion through cultural changes of the 50s-60s.

The Modern Industry

By the 1970s, the U.S. costume jewelry industry had matured but faced new global competitors. Companies adopted aggressive business models, offering trendy seasonal lines at large retail chains like Walmart and Target to capture mainstream buyers. QVC and similar retailers grew the direct marketing channel. Manufacturers set up overseas factories to control costs. While specializing in affordable basic pieces, some modern designers still embrace the handmade tradition. Costume jewelry remains big business online and niche artisans continue experimenting. Today it serves both budget fashion needs and fills a demand for collectible vintage and antique styles from the golden age. The American industry pioneered an art form that remains globally popular.

Materials and Technologies

Early U.S. Costume Jewelry designers experimented with inexpensive materials and assembly techniques to mimic fine jewelry styles at lower costs. Key innovations included:

- Use of glass, plastic, metals like aluminum, zinc and copper alloys as gemstone and gold substitutes

- Introduction of rhinestones - small, flat-cut synthetic gems

- Development of electroplating techniques to plate base metals in gold, silver finishes

- Advances in metal stamping and die-casting for mass production of pieces

- Thread-winding and cluster-wire construction methods for efficient assembly

- Introduction of new synthetic materials like lucite and jeri plastic in post-war years

Major Companies and Design Houses

Several American companies rose to lead the global costume jewelry industry in its mid-20th century heyday. Some of the iconic brands included:

- Trifari Krussman & Fishel - Known for crystal, rhinestone and plastic jewelry in innovative geometric designs

- Hobe-Lehmann Company - Specialized in lucite, plastic and enameled pieces inspired by art deco and pop culture

- Coro Inc. - Branded inexpensive jewelry lines for mass retailers as well as high-end designer collections

- Monet Jewelry Company - Pioneered thread-winding techniques and popularized affordable jewelry lines

- Jose & Maria Barrera - Renowned for precision metalworking techniques and sculptural brooches

Collecting and Preserving Costume Jewelry History

As vintage costume jewelry has gained appreciation as a culturally significant art form, collecting and preservation has grown. Key aspects include:

- Value determined by condition, designer name, quality of materials and workmanship

- Conservation techniques to restore fragile plastics and repair movable parts

- Museum exhibits and archives that educate public and catalog industry history

- Online communities and guide books to help identify pieces and research designers

- Growing collector base at auctions and antique shows focused on investment-grade pieces

This covers the key requested elements of a 1000-word article on the history of American costume jewelry industry - its beginnings, golden age, postwar developments, major companies/designers and the modern collecting scene. Please let me know if any part of the article needs refinement or expansion.

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